Djurdjevic - Personal Photos - E Eur/Russia

23 Jan 2011

Speaking Tour of Eastern Europe, May 2006

Go East, Young Man! (Tsarskoye Selo)

Poland, Russia, Czech Republic...

SAINT PETERSBURG, May 25, 2006 - There is only one way to describe Tsarskoye Selo, the imperial summer residence - breathtaking. See for yourself...

Designed in the mid-18th century by the Italian architect Bartolomeo Francesco Rastrelli, the Catherine Palace (above) is a picture-perfect example of the baroque style that prevailed around European royal courts at the time.

This is the view of the gardens that the Tsars and Tsarinas enjoyed from the front steps of their palace.

At the other end of this long and wide alley, lies the Hermitage Pavillion, also designed in the mid 1750s by Rastrelli and two Russian architects (Zemtsov and Chevakinsky). Since it is currently being renovated, there is really not much to see except for a pretty forest around it...

... but this is what it used to look like before the restoration work (an image borrowed from a photograph).

It is at this point where the formal French (Versailles-style) gardens end, and the "wild" English-style gardens begin. What you're about to see from now on is one of the most enchanted natural beauties I have ever seen. Behind every turn of a path lurks another "painting." Indeed, these gardens have inspired many famous Russian painters and poets into doing some of their best work. The most famous Russian poet Pushkin, who was born in this town and whose name the town now bears, is but one of them. Enjoy...

This is a man-made lake that grew out of the much smaller formal French-style pond. But you'd never know it that it was man-made... it looks so natural and serene.

And this is but a "boat house" - the Grotto Pavilion. One of the thousands of big oaks that grace this property with their presence seems to be extending its protective arm over the scenery.

There are even pseudo-Gothic English-style buildings in this section of the gardens. This one now contains a working restaurant.

But I was even more stunned to see this mosque with a minaret and the far end of the lake. Later on, I read that this was added in the 19th century to mark the numerous military victories that the Russian army scored over the Turks...

...as does this big monument with an eagle on top erected right in the middle of the lake. History aside, isn't this an idyllic scene?

And how about this? This bird cherry tree, now in full blossom with beautiful fragrance, seems to be bending over to kiss the lake.

By the way, according to the Russian lore, when the bird cherry tree blooms, there are going to be more cold days ahead. I can personally attest about the accuracy of this folk wisdom as I shivered and froze in icy rain later on this evening.

This pyramid in the middle of the forest was another surprise that awaited me. The first thing I thought of was the Illuminati and the American one-dollar bill. But as it turns out, the pyramid story is much more benign. Designed and constructed in 1773-1783 by architects Charles Cameron and Vasily Neyelov as a copy of the tomb of one of Rome's Caesars, the pyramid became the burial ground for Empress Catherine II (the Great) favorite dogs. "Lucky dogs," I thought... J

My eyes next feasted on this Marble Bridge that was designed and built in 1777 by Neyelov, a Russian architect. As with most things in these imperial gardens, the bridge does not really serve any purpose. It's there just to be beautiful.

This bronze mass that seems to be just thrown on the ground is actually a sculpture depicting some naval battles.

This is the famous Milkmaid Fountain. It was placed here in 1810, while young Pushkin was still alive.

Since that time, the Milkmaid has served as inspiration for countless poets and painters. Pushkin called her simply the "Tsarskoye Selo statue," and the name stuck.

Right next to the statue is this little dried up creek with its one bank in deep shade and the other in bright sunlight.

I never did find out who this Romanesque character was. I took this picture mostly because of the picturesque scenery behind him, including a field full of dandelions.

...and also above here, designed by Charles Cameron circa 1795, abuts the Catherine Palace and is the dominant high point rising above the imperial gardens. The fresh tulips added color to the imposing structure.

As this is still early spring in these northern lands, you can still see the outlines of the Catherine Palace through the trees atop the hill above.

And now finishing up our walking tour where we started, having come a full circle around the lake, here we are back at the Catherine Palace.

And now, let me invite you for a quick tour of the interior of the Catherine Palace. Not much narration is necessary. I am sure most of the pictures will leave you speechless as they did me.

Doesn't this Great Hall remind you of the Great Hall of Mirrors at the Versailles?

And now, if you have caught your breath again, let us leave Tsarskoye Selo the way we came in...

And now, to let you see "how the other half lives," this is a dilapidated Pushking town tower outside the imperial grounds, but not more than a couple of hundred yards away from it.

Meanwhile, back in St. Petersburg, I had a coffee and an afternoon snack in this typical Russian cellar-style no-English, no-nonsense, no-credit cards, no-problem restaurant. I was back among the common people. It felt as if I had descended from some place high up and far away; as if waking up from a surreal dream about the baroque 18th century.

Credit cards? Ne ponyumayem (I don't understand). No problem. I ran over to a nearby hole-in-the-wall foreign exchange office and changed some dollars for rubles. The blinyi (crepes) were delicious.

Over the years, my family and I have visited nearly all of the grand royal palaces of Europe, and some in Asia, too (Japan, for example). Up until now, Tsarskoye Selo had eluded me. Well, now that I have seen it, all I can say "wow." This has got to be the most beautiful place man and God have ever created. Not just the palace, but also the gardens. Especially the gardens. Was there a just a mere coincidence that Pushkin also hailed from this area? Only God will know the answer to this question. And he isn't telling.