Love & Light and everything bright...

FROM URUBAMBA, PERU

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Day 8: Basilica de Señor Huanca; Saqsaywaman; Conversations with Spirits #3

MT. URUBAMBA, Peru, July 5, 2008 - This morning was the third time in a row that I have given away my trail mix to the local Inka children.  It was so cute to watch them carefully pick out a few bits and pieces before diving in for the rest.  "If only we were to bring a Whole Foods store here, they could go on

enjoying them even after we leave," I said to some of my fellow-travelers.  Alas, this little kitten in a little souvenir shop was a little nonplussed by all the activities in the street.

Our first destination today was the 17th century Basilica de Señor Huanca in the foothills of Pachatusan ("Axis of the Earth" - middle left), the Holies of the Holy mountains in Peru.  That's the red dot (roof) that you saw in my travelogue about Pisaq from three days ago.  every Sep 14, we are told, some 150,000 people gather here for an annual fiesta.  Luckily, the place was not as busy when we arrived.

The church is situated in a picturesque river valley (left).  It bears an unmistakable imprint of the Spanish architecture.  As most of the churches that the conquistadors built, this one was also erected on an Inka uaca (a sacred rock that lies below).

The Spaniards were kind enough to leave about a 12-inch opening in the wall back of the church through which one can touch the rock.  We all did.  The Basilica is evidently well cared for, judging by the beautiful flowers all around it.  It was built in 1675 and last restored some 40 years ago.

The steps back of the church where we all sat and waited patiently to touch the sacred rock, reminded me of Rome's Spanish steps (two left shots).  And no wonder.  Both are of the same architectural origin.  A little ways up the hill, there is a natural spring that's regarded as sort of a holy water.  So everybody doused themselves generously, some of us immersing themselves completely (middle right).  It was interesting to observe here both the Christian and the Inka statues. Not being able to defeat the Inka spirit as they conquered their land, guess the Spaniards at least acquiesced to dual relics.

After the visit to the Basilica, we visited another ancient site whose name I did not retain.  This is where we were met by a real live Inka warrior.  He was friendly though, as you can see from the left shot. As with almost all of the Inka settlements, this one was also carved into and out of the natural rock formation.  The big block in the middle of the middle left photo was used for "offerings" (read sacrifices, probably human, too).  One of our members said she could feel the blood when she walked past that table.  Well, at least there was no bad odor...

From this site and the nearby roadway one could enjoy nice views of Cusco that lay in the valley below.  As we were about to board our buses here, I was approached by a cute Inka girl who was trying to sell me a sombrero-type hat.  Unlike most of the street vendors, she spoke fairly good English  At first, I resisted her offer, telling her I already had two hats and only one head.  "So if I were to buy a third hat from you, I would have to grow another head," I joked.  She laughed as did other people around us, but persisted in her sales pitch.  "But please, Mister, buy it as a gift," she pleaded.  And so I did, relenting in the end.  Funny thing was, when I got back on the bus, I realized that I had forgotten both of my hats that day.  So this Inka "sombrero" came in handy later on in the warm afternoon sun.

We had lunch at this delightful restaurant in the hills above Cusco that provided great views of the city. We were greeted at the door by this young Inka woman, dressed in a traditional costume. 

The food was great and the atmosphere festive.  I said to the friends seated around me that we needed some Peruvian music.  The on my way to the restroom, I noticed the musicians unpacking their instruments.  "Way to manifest music," someone congratulated me, as if I were responsible for the musicians' sudden appearance.  After they started playing, I took out my camera and made this short video clip...

Luncheon in Cusco, Peru (July 5, 2008) (54 secs)